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When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.